We’d seen the forecast so we’d some idea what to expect. We left our Premier Inn full of breakfast, energy, anticipation – and dressed in full waterproofs. It was a mile to the start point in Milngavie, a quick photo of the obligatory obelisk and then we started a very pretty meander through Mugdock Country Park. There were lots of bluebells and songbirds and it was a super way to begin.
The drizzle was already present, so it was hood on, hood off kinda weather, but it was mild, so not a problem. At this stage it was all about getting the pack settled comfortably, with lots of tweaks to the straps.
We passed and were passed, exchanging pleasantries with coupes, singles and groups. We stopped to watch a deer bounding the other way. For some time, we could hear a Cuckoo as we walked through heathland.
At 5 miles in we stopped for a swig of coffee – we both have little flasks with us – and the first Blister plaster. Yup, you read that right. I have fab boots, but not so fab feet. They’re a strange shape courtesy of huge bunions, so it’s not unusual for me to have problems, unfortunately. Compeed to the rescue!!
We fell in with a soloist who we walked with for a mile or so to the Beech Tree. She had lunch, we had hot chocolate. It was a welcome reprieve from the steadily worsening drizzle, and by the time we were back on our way, it was definitely rain, and the breeze was picking up.
The last three miles were a steady march to the campsite, hoping we could beat the worsening weather. The scenery was superb, but we were getting concerned about the risk of wet kit, and we were ready for food.
The campsite was a welcome site. By now the rain was persistent, so we settled in to the barn, got a load of kit hung up and made a soup whilst there was a brief reprieve to get the tent set up.
Over the next couple of hours, bedraggled walkers arrived, dripping into the barn. One couple impressed us immensely as they unpacked and prepared what appeared to be a gourmet feast, pasta, salad, avocados, sauce…. Our Bachelors pasta n sauce was just a pale imitation of food by comparison !!!!
A lovely hot shower and we retreated to the tent with hot chocolate and a hot water bottle (luxury item hahaha!) for a stormy night. Day one accomplished!
Notes
Premier Inn Bearsden is considerably cheaper that Milngavie, and it’s literally a 5 minute walk (max) from its sister site. The pub is pretty good, and breakfast set us up for a good day. The Beech Tree hot choc isn’t great if I’m honest. The lady is very welcoming tho and it’s a handy stop.
Dryman campsite is about a mile before the town so if you need food, take it with you or be prepared to go a little further.
As the season draws to a slow close, it’s time to reflect on the summer we’ve spent in beautiful Scotland. We’ve had the most wonderful time exploring this little corner of the country, and would heartily recommend visiting it to all, but especially to anyone who loves the great outdoors. We’ve tried to visit somewhere new every time we’ve had time off – here are our highlights!
Spring is yellow in Scotland! Gorse, broom, daffodils, yellow everywhere you look, bright and cheery as the sun starts to shine!
April
We are new to the area and finding our feet and trying to understand the local covid rules, which, of course, are different to England! We are in Huntly, not far from the Cairngorms, not far from the coast. And as it turns out, the absolute perfect base for exploring and falling in love with north east Scotland!
A trip to the seaside was in order so we parked at Cullen Bay, took a bus to Buckie, and walked back. The walk was our first real insight into the beauty of this stretch of coast – sparkling blue seas, wide flat beaches, dramatic rugged cliffs – there, I think I’ve done every cliché, but with justification! We saw lots of wild life, actually remembering to take a guidebook with us so we could identify the species (!) which is unusual for us (see other posts on Being a Bad Birdwatcher!!) And we were well rewarded at the end of the walk with superb chish fips from Linda’s, devoured overlooking the beach and the towering viaducts.
May
Our month began with a stroll from Spey Bay up the the last few miles of the Speyside Way. It didn’t take long for the Spey to captivate us, and in fact over the course of our stay in Scotland I have decided it’s probably the most beautiful river I’ve seen. Our walk was made so special by the addition of greater spotted woodpeckers, bullfinches, a blackcap – and otters and an osprey. Otters and an osprey – in one day – simply amazing!!!
A second trip to the coast took in Portsoy, a gorgeous little fishing village with a quaint harbour and a tiny loch. Well worth a little visit as we coast hopped in the sunshine, but the next day the weather took a turn for the worst and our walk from Cullen to Findlater Castle was abandoned just a mile or so in, such was the rain and wind! I guess summer isn’t quite with us just yet….
We visited the Loanstone of Daviot, a historic monument whose origins are a little uncertain, but certainly it has been a burial ground and possibly the recumbent stones were something to do with watching the nightsky.
Forvie Nature Reserve held our attention more – a bracing walk along the coast to Newburgh and back, lots of birdlife and some spectacular views. Walking through the dunes that the area is renowned for can be challenging! We went on to Newburgh by van afterwards for a late lunch at the golf club which was pretty tasty too.
Our final foray in May was to Elgin, where we explored the Biblical Gardens and had a wander around the town centre. The Garden was very pretty, with the ruins of Elgin cathedral as it’s backdrop, and although there’s not much too exciting the town centre (Covid has probably done a lot of damage here), there was a super little eatery called Planta where we enjoyed a very delicious late lunch. Happily it catered for vegetarians beyond the macaroni pie I am usually offered at the moment!
June
We had relatives visiting in June and this made me really scratch my head to plan activities as the area isn’t particularly access friendly. This was compounded by the very limited opening hours many businesses are operating under at the moment, with attractions often only open at the weekend. However we managed to pull together an itinery that seemed to please everyone and although it meant a bit more time in the vehicles, we did see some very pretty places.
Fyvie Castle has lovely gardens to meander around. We didn’t venture around the loch because the path isn’t suitable for a mobility scooter but the gardens were full of spring colour which was delightful. And a bonus of spotting a red squirrel and some baby swans on the nest too!
After Fyvie we headed out to the coast, visting the cutesy Pennan – well worth the rather hair-raising drive down to it! This is a tiny inlet with picture postcard houses nestled into the cliff, overlooking a Mediterranean – esque bay. Washing flutters on the lines along the sea front adding to the charm. We stayed here for a while just soaking in the view and ambiance before heading over to Macduff for a bite to eat at Annie’s Cakery. Then on to Portsoy for a chill out watching everyone enjoy the sea and harbour.
The following day we headed in the opposite direction to drive some of the snow roads. A little wander around Tomintoul – always a pleasure, especially when it includes tea and cake – was followed by a drive out to see the Watchers and The Still before heading to the Packhorse Bridge in Glenlivet. We had expected a pretty spot but it really exceeded our expectations so we stayed for the afteroon, enjoying a leisurely picnic whilst watching the antics of a grey wagtail at the water’s edge.
The family did some local exploring without us too, and really enjoyed the area immensely, so hopefully it was worth their 9 hour journey to get here! If you need accommodation in the area, they stayed at Rowan Cottage just outside Huntly.
Our next little exploration alone was down the coast. We stayed on Stonehaven Harbour and walked up to the delightful Dunnotar Castle. Such a romantic place! We had bright sunny weather and it was a pretty walk, topped and tailed with goodies and icecreams from The Old Pier bakery in Stonehaven – yummy! Stonehaven itself was very charming, with a beachside promenade being completed whilst we were there, adorned with small sculptures along its route. The place was buzzing with holiday makers, it was great to see lots of young families enjoying the sea and sunshine.
From Stonehaven we drove down to RSPB Fowlsheugh to spot Puffins amongst the very noisy (and rather fragrant) Guillemots and Razorbills, then a little meander to St Cyrus where we had a wander along the vast, empty beach. I love beaches like this, so empty and wild, stretching out endlessly before you, with the blue blue sea tempting you to foreign climes and adventures! It really reminded me of Norfolk too.
Our final destination for the day was Cruden Bay, where we stayed on the harbour for the night for a small donation in the honesty box. This was a pleasant spot for watching sun down, and the next day we climbed up and over to Slains Castle, the eerie ruins which contrast so greatly with those of the day before. Not wanting to start an argemnt, but round these parts they claim that Slains, not Whitby, was the inspiration for Dracula, and it wouldn’t be hard to see why, so haunting is this edifice!
At the end of the month we decided to head a little northward, hoping to see the famous dolphins that frequent the coastline. Our adventures took in overnight stays in Burghead – with a spectacular thunderstorm raging around us – ad delightful walks around Findhorn and Inverness. The first has a fascinating community, which if you are interested in our impact on Mother Nature is well worth reading more about. We wandered around the Findhorn Foundation eco village, intrigued by the variety of property and the activities that were available to residents. We’ll definitely go back once the pandemic has abated so that we can get a better insight into how life is lived here.
The village and harbour are serene and picturesque, and must be a lovely place to stay in the summer.
We called in at the villages and towns en route to Inverness, including Nairn and Forrres (amazing blooms everywhere, just gorgeous!) before heading to Culloden for the night. A little walk around the famed battlefields and a bit of time spent learning about this bloody and horrific battle, before heading in to Inverness for yet another surprise. …this is a super little city with super little riverside walks and views!
The exploration of our local area is going really well! So far we’ve hiked 7 miles of the Moray Coastal Trail, and the mouth of the Spey along the Speyside Way.
Our first day trip took us to Cullen Bay, where we caught the (rather expensive) bus to Buckie, and walked back along the Coastal Trail. The trail took us along cliff tops, golf courses, beaches and through little fishing villages and harbours. We were spoilt to a (rare) sunny day, and rewarded ourselves at the end with a fantastic fish supper on the green in Cullen Bay at the end. It was a spectacular walk, always something interesting to see, and well worth the effort.
Bow Fiddle Rock
The weather has not been kind of late, but adopting the old adage of ‘there’s no such thing as bad weather, just poor clothing choice’, we packed our waterproofs, put on an extra layer, and headed off to Spey Bay yesterday. We called there before and had a chat with a lovely couple who told us all about the osprey, the shifting geography of the area, and a couple of special places to visit in the future. We were keen to spot the osprey so armed with a bird watching guide and binoculars, we headed out.
The walk itself was very pretty, and in a couple of ours we’d spotted a greater spotted woodpecker, bullfinches feeding on the rape flowers, various little songbirds…but no Osprey. I mean, no disrespect to the to the others, but I was hoping for the big one!
We were just about to turn back when we got chatting to a fisherman who suggested we walked another few minutes to a more open spot with a better view, as he’d seen our elusive bird around half an hour earlier. We took his advice and what a result – 2 otters playing in the river!! We’ve never seen otters before so this was super cool! And then the osprey flew over, but he was here and gone, so just a few seconds. But still…!
We wandered back, got caught in a passing shower – the only one, happily- and then headed for a sheltered bench for a quick coffee. And guess who came back?
Whilst chatting to a very knowledgeable birder, the osprey spent half an hour hovering and gliding around, before departing with talons full of a big fish. It was spectacular to see, and rounded off a truly fabulous day.
We don’t have the right equipment for bird photography really, but I have included a couple of very amateur snaps for you nonetheless.
Next stops – Strathbeg, Trouphead and Spiney Loch. And hopefully, some puffins!!
No, we’re not still in the Alps, we are somewhere much, much colder. Scotland! As the season faded to a close, we left Megeve (more on that another day, I am yet to write about our somewhat unusual season!), headed home to do our quarantine, and then toddled up north to start our new role.
So just a quick post today, to say we are doing a ‘summer’ season. This is all new to us, but as travel abroad looks to be unlikely again this summer, we thought it made sense to get a bit of work done, top up the funds, and then when Covid finally bogs off, we can go play again.
We are at Huntly Castle Caravan Park, a lovely, peaceful site near the Cairngorms. We’ve pootled about to get our bearings, and below is what we’ve found so far. I think it’s gonna be an epic summer, we’re excited to meet new guests, new people, a new community – let the adventure begin!!
In a long overdue post, I thought we really should mention our three weeks in Sardinia in November. We’re currently in Megève, France, for the ski season, and if I’m honest, my head hasn’t been in the right place for writing, such has been the peculiar situation we find ourselves in (more on that in due course!), but the sun has been out and brightened my mood, so here we go!
We headed to Sardinia as Italy started to tighten restrictions, realising that if we stayed in Sicily we could find ourselves cornered in one town. Unfortunately this means we still haven’t visited the south of the island, which was a key objective, so sadly (haha!) we’ll have to return once more! Sardinia had lower C19 rates so we hopped on another ferry and hoped for the best.
We couldn’t have chosen better. We have both fallen in love with the island, so much so that we may find ourselves there more often in the future – property prices are pretty sensible still. I don’t want to give a day by day account, it would be tedious I fear, but I do want to share some of the sights and highlights.
This was a trip characterised by stunning sunsets, daily sea swims, and lazy walks. The south and west of the island held us captivated. The beaches, often nestled in rocky coves, the crystal clear waters, pink flamingos, lush green countryside, all conspire to slow you down, relax and linger.
We arrived into Cagliari but didn’t visit the capital, heading straight across to the coast. Using P4N and SearchforSites as our guides, we found wild camping spots along the coast from Pula to Sant’Antioco, sometimes on the beach, once at a heritage site, in little coves, and along the marina. We had no problems, met a few other chatty campers, and chilled.
The town of Sant’Antico is very sweet, it runs up from the harbour where fishing and pleasure boats bob up and down. The harbour is lined with restaurants and cafes, and the town climbs up and way in a sprawl of little streets, shops and houses. There’s a tarmac cycle path that extends to Santa Catarina which is very pleasant, there are reserves and salt pans on one side and the harbour to the other, with lots of wildlife.
Street corner in SASant’AntiocoI can’t get enough of this smart ‘copper’ guttering!SA MarinaMaladroxia
The island is worthy of a tour too. Harder to find somewhere to wild camp, but with some spectacular cliff views, and the most lovely seaside town in the south, called Maladroxia, with cute little houses along the beach front that I’d love to live in!
Back on the mainland, and a little further south of here, we drove down to Pula and Nora. Nora is a historic landmark site, Phoenecian and Roman in origin. Whilst we were unable to explore the full site, we were able to see some of the ruins on our run, and we stayed on the peninsula with the sea on either side, absolutely wonderful! Beach yoga and a paddle in the sea, surrounded by ancient history, is something quite special!
Nora
We then ventured back up the coast. It’s an awesome coastal road, breathtaking views around every bend. We stopped in at Bosa, which rewards visitors who climb up to the castle (closed unfortunately due to covid) with amazing views of the multi coloured town, houses painted in bright pastels that look like something out of a kid’s story book. Then we headed up again, via the gorgeous, Spanish stye town of Alghero, where we camped on the harbour wall and had to move in the middle of the night due to high winds crashing waves over the harbour shelter and onto the van! Alghero is on our list for a return visit, full of history and beautiful old buildings.
Bosa,such a pretty townWhat a view from the door of the van!Sunset at Capo Caccia
After Alghero we were treated to more spectacular walks and views on the Capo Caccia, before mooching a little further north to Argentiera.
We stopped at this beach for a little lunchtime picnic and met a super chatty local man. He came over and commented on the ‘English-ness’ of our lunch (he had a point!) before telling us all about his career as an English teacher in Sardinia, the differences between Sardinian and Sicilian people, and where to explore next on the island. I love meeting people like this, full of enthusiasm for their home and happy to share it’s secrets.
We stayed several nights in Argentiera, an incredible beach spot with breathtaking sunsets and fabulous walks, even if the town itself wasn’t very much. We’d gone here to find someone we knew, but that didn’t workout. Instead, we met three mad cap Germans. Two were in a converted removals van, and this really was something else. In the back, a hoist to lift his 1970s ex Italian police MotoGuzzi. An old wooden dining suite of table and 4 chairs. A sofa and armchair. A full kitchen and bathroom, a study area, and a double bed accessible via a ladder. And on the side of the van, a proper, old school, solid wood front door. We went to say hello and stayed for a couple of hours drinking warm white wine, and we were joined by the third German who was in a little Romahome type van. I’m not sure which of the three was the craziest, but the next morning when we set off, we encountered the biker again, pushing his heavy old bike up the hill. He had run out of fuel on a ride out to ‘clear his head’ of his wine induced hangover! We ended up towing the bike back to the van using his belt, certainly an experience none of us will forget!
Argentiera
It seemed a good time to take a little trip inland, and over the next few days we meandered through a few little places, but the highlight if these had to be Orgosolo. You could spend hours wandering the streets here. The buildings are covered in murals, some political, religious or historic, others just fun. They date back many years, but there are also recent additions. It’s fascinating and interesting and curious and I wish I had a guide with me that day to explain them to me in more detail because the wording was often hard to translate from the local dialect. Again, one to re visit after Covid.
these paintings are in Orgosolo, every other house seems o have a mural on it.
Orgosolo
Orgosolo
Orgosolo
Orgosolo
Orgosolo
Orgosolo
Also super fun was Su Gologone. The roads through this part of the island are in themselves incredible, heading up over mountains, through towns clinging to hillsides, and with rugged vistas. Su Gologone was a treat because we parked in the valley by the spring, where the water was simply delicious, and the next day we went for a (very challenging) cycle ride up the mountains to visit the caves – which were shut, but we went anyway! It was a different and very active day out, but a step change from the usual beach and sea experiences we’d had.
After this, a couple of things started to change. Firstly, the unseasonably warm weather we were enjoying was being replaced by increasingly high winds that battered the van overnight and caused temperatures ti tumble. No more sea swims, which had been an almost daily feature, much to my delight and Rick’s astonishment. But also, the further east and north we went, the less van friendly it became. The reviews of parking places made this very clear, and we were visited by the local police most nights. They were always friendly and courteous, and always made it clear what we could and could not do, but it was clear indication that were not quite so welcome on this side of town! We nevertheless found a few nice beach spots but soon headed back towards the west, where life was more relaxed.
The north east of the island is known for being more upmarket, so perhaps this is no surprise. But equally we felt it was much less charming that the rural west which we much preferred.
The one place I would call an exception to this was Arbatax, possibly in part due to us being in low season. We were able to stay on the coast again, in the shelter of the magnificent red rocks the area is famed for. And what a treat at night – it’s illuminated! It is a most spectacular place, and there is a bustling port and what is no doubt a very busy seaside town too. Bizarrely, at the top of the cliffs is what appears to have been a fantastic tourist facility with a restaurant or cafe, but it closed and completely vandalised, a real shame. But the walk up is still very worthwhile.
Back west, we went to Castelsardo and and up to the tip of the promontory at Stintino. Castelsardo is another gorgeous port town, I’d imagine that in full summer swing it’s really a place to be. We sat underneath the castle walls with a cool beer and watched the sun dip behind the rocks, simply glorious. And Stintino offers lots of curious walks amongst the most peculiar rock formations, with fantastic coastal views. Here we met another couple on a van, Germans who spend every winter in Sardinia doing watersports, heading back to their home in northern Germany for the summer where they run a watersports centre. It was interesting to chat with them about their lifestyle, their van experiences in Sardinia, and their summer business .
Sadly, all good things come to an end, and we needed to get over to France whilst we still could (turned out to be a prudent move!) So with a heavy heart we bade farewell to Sardinia, but there is no doubt we’ll be back, hopefully to explore the historic sites properly when they’re open, maybe to try some water sports, definitely to swim in the beautiful sea!
Now, in reality it’s not the first time, as I’ve caught up with him at Cadwell Park many years ago to sign a pushbike I was using as an autograph book. But this was an ‘evening with’ type of event so it was a bit more meaningful.
What a fab night. Look in Reviews for the Marquis of Granby, where we stayed overnight. The event was at Hull KCom stadium. We had our photo taken with the star of the night, and then sat back and listened to Matt Roberts draw out all sorts of entertaining stories.
It was a brilliant night. In the first half we heard tales of childhood and career, warming us up nicely for the forthcoming book! Then in the second half we were able to ask questions. Rick and I put forward a question around motivation in tough times, as Shakey is recovering from a terrible accident and life changing injuries. He gave a thoughtful and caring reply which was very special to us, but in truth, all the replies to all the questions were well considered, and more than one had an amusing anecdote to go with it.
There was the obligatory auction and raffle, and then we were all done and homeward bound, buzzing from the thrill of spending some time with our BSB hero.
Rick doesn’t eat fish. Well, not unless it’s liberally battered, fried, and accompanied with chips. So when he told me to go ahead and order a variety of fish sharers, I was stunned.
Turns out, this fish has made all the difference. This tapas meal was absolutely delicious! We called at Molo Sant’Erasmo because we were mooching around Palermo, had suddenly become very hungry, and the lovely blue and grey deck chairs outside the smart, floor to ceiling glazed sea front restaurant had superb kerb appeal. The cheerful waiter who greeted us sealed the deal and we settled in with our relaxing sea view.
I ordered Fish Bruscetta, Blue Fish Meatballs and Panko Shrimp. The first was salt cod, generously heaped onto little toasts, with a local provolone cheese fondue to make it into a scrumptious creamy delight. The four meatballs were hefty, smothered in a tangy, rich tomato sauce containing pine nuts and raisins, and almost a meal in themselves, the sauce being mopped up enthusiastically with some crusty, sesame seeded bread. And the shrimps were fat and juicy, a light breadcrumb adding a bite and great dipped in the super lemon mayo.
The feast was complemented with a crisp, Sicilian white wine that was perfect for the occasion, and a draught beer for Rick. But here’s the big moment. Obviously, I loved it. The food was excellent, the service was warm and friendly, the ambience was spot on, right down to the chilled out tunes. But Rick loved it to! Finally, after 20 years, a fish meal not from the chippy that he enjoyed. For me, that’s the deal breaker!
If you’re in Sicily, check this place out. Inside is very cool, it’s relaxed, modern, pristine and on trend. Outside has wonderful views and the option to kick back on the oversize deck chairs or sit ‘properly’ at the tables. £30 and we were stuffed when we left, but if we hadn’t been, the cannoli being served to another table looked wicked!
We’ve escaped! Fearing a lockdown that would prevent us travelling to Europe for our upcoming (hopefully!) ski season, we set off early and arrived in the Netherlands on Saturday. The crossing was super smooth, and our P&O ferry felt pretty C19 safe, although there were few passengers from what we saw. We took a picnic tea to eat in our cabin to keep as isolated as possible, although we did spend on hour in the (mostly empty) bar when we first boarded, listening to the live singer, which was a good way to start proceedings.
Before boarding, we took the opportunity to have a quick stop in Beverley and then a walk round Hull old town and visit the Streetlife museum. The latter isn’t fully open but from what we enjoyed, we’d definitely recommend it. Entry is free, and there are some super exhibits, including old cars and trams, and my favourite, old shops that have been recreated to take you back in time.
Inside the Streetlife MuseumThis garden has a ship laid out in words along itBeautiful Beverley Minster
Hull’s old town is full of lovely architecture and monuments. Hull gets such a bad rep but has done much to reinvent itself, and the people are great, always so friendly. We stopped at a wild camp near Spurn Point, and got chatting to bird watchers who helped us to find goldcrests (a first for me) and fieldfares (I thought they were thrushes on steroids, big fat fluffy things on a chilly day), knot and Scandinavian (rather than native) blackbirds. In particular, the official reporter for Rotherham ornothologists, took time to share his scope, knowledge and some Yorkshire highlights with us so we could visit somewhere new next time.
Looking out over the Humber
We thought it prudent not to stop in The Netherlands, given their rising statistics and the FCO warnings, so motored on swiftly to our next stop….Germany.
Called in here for drinks repeatedly over the weekend. On occasion the team look a bit pressured – I think they had a bit of something going on behind the scenes – but they got it back and delivered friendly and quick service every visit. Cask ales were always on point, and the pub is really nice inside. Love the pastel coloured beer garden brollies too, very pretty!
Crown Inn
Does a good cask pint and a cracking plate of food! We ate here after the marathon. I had the lamb with Moroccan stew, a hearty lamb shank, but the stew would have benefited from being more spiced to taste north African. Rick and Geoff had enormous plates of pie, pastry top and bottom, just as it should be. And Mum had chish fips, which looked like a whale had been battered such was its magnitude.
We all felt stuffed, but Rick felt obliged to try the choc fudge cake (weirdly, with custard, which even more weirdly, arrived cold!)
Lovely team, bright, fresh interior and great service.
We decided it was just too soon to leave the Lakes after our weekend of running, so stayed for another night. This gave us all the opportunity for a bit more exploring, so Rick and I headed up to the Coppermines Valley and scrambled up a waterfall to see the old mine head and mine shafts, and Mum and Geoff headed onto the water in an electric speedboat.
Going up the mountain was fine, but coming down definitely tested my poor quads! So much so that I had to ease the pain with a pint at the Yewdale before we headed back to camp and a slightly soggy BBQ!
During the day we also added to Sid the Covid snake, a bit of fun on the church wall. Someone had a lovely little idea here and we enjoyed making our contributions, hopefully they’ll make someone smile too.
Copper MineView to Coniston from the CopperminesEnjoying the viewCrazy people coasteering down a waterfall!Mine shaftAdding to Sid the Covid Snake in Coniston
Come a damp Tuesday and our wonderful Lakeland weekend was over and it was time to move on. Heading off in the rain, we started our journey northward, destination Loch Lomond. We had an idea where to go and pulled up at Tarbet pier late afternoon and settled in for the night.
Loch Lomond – wow! What a fantastic place to explore. We wrapped up for the elements, packed our waterproofs and lunch and set off down the safe and pretty cycle route south along the shores. It wasn’t long before we were unpacking the waterproofs! But no matter, it’s only rain, and 8 miles later we arrived in Luss.
Luss is a historic village of little cottages, a church built in honour of a drowned man with a roof representing an upturned boat, and a Faerie trail. It was very pretty, and we had a good wander around before resuming our pedal southwards.
Clockwise: (1) Faerie House (2)Luss church (3) Faerie seat (4) and (5)Loch Lomond (6)It was chilly but beautiful (7) Luss village
The route is well surfaced, with many photo opportunities. Also, there are lots of spots for campers and for camper vans. Scotland welcomes tourists much better than England in this regard, and in fact where we were staying, there were clean toilets, hot water, drinking water and a chemical disposal point, all free of charge (a donation in the box is welcomed).
Our only disappointment was the amount of litter, it’s quite shocking. In the hedgerows, on the beaches, on the paths and carparks, litter abounds, such a shame. We did complete a litter pick in the area before we left because it really tarnishes our reputation as tourists when it’s left like this.
We found a picnic spot along the route and enjoyed our lunch before resuming our pedal to Balloch – a town that sounds incredibly rude in our northern accents!!! A quick ride through the country park and it was time to start the 16 miles back to camp so we didn’t get caught in the dark.
Keen to support our poor hospitality sector, we walked up to the pub after we got back for a couple of pints (see Reviews) – the Slanj Inn is definitely the best use of a church I’ve ever seen!!
Wednesday was supposed to be a more gentle day, we’d booked a ferry over to Inversnaid and hoped to take it easy through the nature reserves. Ha! We should know better!
The ferry ride across the flat glassy Lomond was lovely, but the first mile was such a steep climb we both had to dismount and walk some of it! But when we summitted, we were surrounded by stunning vistas across the mountains and Loch Arklet, a reservoir. But the treat of the day was to come, because as we arrived into Stronachlachar to view Loch Katrine the heavens opened and we felt obliged to support local hospitality again and shelter in the super Pier Cafe. Hot choc, a fresh, warm scone for me and a Bakewell slice for him – just delicious!!
Such a beautiful house!Bunkhouse, surprisinglyInversnaid Hotel, sadly closed due to C19Loch KatrineLoch ArkletCoffee stopAwaiting the return ferry, from Inversnaid
We were home relatively early and decided that it would be opportune to move on. Using a local tourist leaflet, and educated by a local chap who made recommendations, we hit the road for the short trip to Killin.
En route, we called in at An Ceann Mòr, an art installation for viewing Loch Lomond, and at the Falls of Falloch where another installation, Woven Sound, gives you a unique view of the tumbling waters. Both are well worth a visit for their unusual presence and perspective.
Falls of FallochInside Woven SoundLoch Lomond from An Ceann MòrFalls of FallochAn Ceann Mòr
We parked up at the old station carpark and ventured out in the cold to find a local pint, discovering the Killin Hotel. Such a shame that businesses like this are to be further punished by C19 regulations when they are working so hard to keep social distancing and track and trace fully operational.
The Falls of Dochart are well worth viewing a we walked to them via a well marked path that took us in a loop from our van to the head of Loch Tay and then back to the village. It was sharp out, and perhaps no surprise that the higher peaks had clearly been dusted with snow – our first sighting of the white stuff this season!! That soon had us thinking about our travels off to the French Alps…
Falls of DochartI might have learned chess if I’d a set like this!Loch Tay – there’s snow on them there hills in the distance!
You’ll be amazed to know that our little morning stroll ended at a coffee and cake shop! Feeling well fuelled, we packed up and headed for our next destination.
Friday’s drive took us along Loch Lubnaig to Callendar, then on to Aberfoyle, where we camped in the woods about 2 miles from town. There are pretty woodland paths into town, although they are quite strenuous in places.
Sadly we didn’t have much time to spend in Aberfoyle as we wanted to head over for a quick day trip to Falkirk before heading south again. We had a little walk round the town in the late afternoon, and purchased some nice local goodies, but the next morning we were back on the road. We’ll be back though because it looked like a great base for a couple of days.
Over in Falkirk we had two objectives – to see the Kelpies and the Falkirk Wheel. I know, proper tourists, and once again, we underestimated how much time we’d need to do them justice so we’ll go back, but on this occasion we were able to have a couple of hours strolling around the Helix, which is the eco park in which the Kelpies are the centre piece, and we got see the Falkirk Wheel completing a rotation with a boat in place.
How it worksKelpiesWalk through the HelixFalkirk WheelMagnificent Kelpies
Both attractions are very cool engineering feats. The magnificent Kelpies stand proud over the lock, and I’d love to see them illuminated in the evening. You can go inside them too, under normal circumstances, but of course we couldn’t when we visited and although the cafe and food vendors were open, the visitor centre wasn’t and we were unable to learn as much as we’d hoped.
The Wheel is just incredible, watching it rotate is something quite remarkable! We were quite astonished at how smooth and speedy it appeared to be. You can get from one attraction to the other by path/bike, its about 4.5 miles so next time we visit that’s what we’ll do so we can see a bit more of the area.
Our final night in Scotland was to be in Lanark. We chose the spot because it had hook up and we had run out of gas. There seems to be a national shortage of Calor, which is something of a headache when you mostly live in your van! But the charming and friendly owners of this commercial aire welcomed us warmly and we relaxed in the picturesque grounds of the farm and castle for the night before reluctantly heading south, back to more restrictions, back to the rain, and in planning mode for the next step of our adventure!
Ricoshay's Ramblings 