Well it’s not everyday you get to celebrate a big milestone like your 20th wedding anniversary, and Salamanca was certainly the place to do it!
Salamanca – where the old cathedral wasn’t big enough, so they built a new one and joined them together. Salamanca – with its Casa de Las Conchas and it’s hidden golden coin. Salamanca – where the magnificent Plaza Mayor becomes even more magical at night when the lights turn it golden.
And if that wasn’t enough, the Festival started today. So we’ve had a flower procession where all the participants were in traditional dress, a dragon dance, and the most spectacular firework display from the Roman Bridge at night – a full 20 minutes if some of glitziest and loudest fireworks I’ve seen! There was a week of pop concerts – free – in the Plaza too, but they start at 11.30 each night so we gave it a miss!
We stayed at a campsite on the outskirts of town and cycled in. The infrastructure to do this was fantastic; proper cycle paths, separated from traffic, a route through a lovely park and then along the river into the city. The campsite was great too, with an outdoor pool and super facilities; also we met a Welsh cycle team who were raising funds for prostate cancer and had experienced a nightmare when customs held their bikes for thousands of pounds (thank you Brexit).
We celebrated with a delicious meal on an outside restaurant, glorious sunshine and a glass of wine too many at lunchtime, and had a leisurely cycle back without getting lost after a wonderful day in this fine city.
Today’s first stop was Santillano del Mar, which we happened upon after deciding to opt for the scenic route instead of the motorway. We were hungry and ready for a second breakfast, so after collecting a map from Tourist Info, we chose a little cafe promising churros and chocolate, which we devoured with a couple of coffees.
Santillano del Mar is a town of lies. Not my accusation – it’s name means ‘flat’ – which it isn’t, and ‘of the sea’ – but it’s inland! No matter, its medieval, steeped in history and museums, but also a bit touristy. We had a pleasant amble around before hopping in the Colonel to see what awaited next.
Heading towards Comillas, we were side tracked by a pretty spired building on a hill, so we parked and had a quick walk up to see the church and its neighbour, an Abbey. Then on to Camillos, which we stayed for a couple of hours.
Camillos was very pretty, with a couple of little plazas full of places to eat, a busker alternating between a didgeridoo and a steel drum, and an inviting bay. We enjoyed a late lunch – jamon, huevos and patatas para èl, and great big juicy prawns para mi!!! Lacksadaisical service was compensated by the delicious seafood, but we were there some time! Just had enough time left on the parking ticket for me to go for a swim in the sea whilst Rick took a wander around the harbour to look at the fishing boats.
It looked better at a distance!Sooo good!
Our final stop of the day was San Vicente de la Berquera. We hadn’t planned to stop here but as we drove through it looked delightful, a sprawling riviera town, so we parked up and had a bimble around, walking up to the famous church atop the hill where pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago pass through the west gate (so I read!) and past the castle, then around the town and harbour. With the obligatory ice cream, of course. I had no idea what flavour I’d ordered but it turned out to be Hazelnut and it was yummy!
Rick ‘being a pilgrim’!
Our first impression of Spain has been really good. The weather today was a bit hit and miss, but the scenery and towns through Cantabria have been beautiful and also a reflection of the deep history and culture of the area, and we’ve enjoyed getting a taste of that.
So now I’m drafting this from a carpark where we are overnighting with a number of other vans in the Picos de Europa, ready for an early start and a long hike tomorrow. We’ve had a good chat with our Spanish neighbours, who are lovely, and who have taught me some rude words and also corrected my terrible Spanish accent! We are surrounded by towering mountain peaks, it’s utterly spectacular, and we are excited for tomorrow’s jaunt!
What a fab day! Altho we didn’t get off to the best start as someone decide to hoon around the carpark at 3am repeatedly honking their horn. Apparently it can be locals who object to those of us who don’t always use campsites. Oh well…
It was a clear blue sky, full of promise for the day ahead, so we made a picnic – local blue cheese, lovely soft bread, fresh nectarines, and a flask of coffee, a couple of cheeky radlers, and went to find the carpark for the start of the Ruta del Cares.
The walk was superb. Some climbing for the first couple of miles, and then fairly level. It’s very existence is remarkable – here is the tourist info on it : (thank you Wikipedia)
The first road to the Cares was excavated in the rock between 1915 and 1921, during the construction of a wide channel destined to supply water to the Camarmeña loading chamber, from where the turbines of the Poncebos hydroelectric plant . The inaccessible orography of the gorge greatly complicated the construction work, which required the use of dynamite and ropes from which the workers hung. It was then a narrow path destined to maintain the canal. Some 500 people participated in the construction of the canal and the road, many of them Galician and most of them drillers, as well as people from the area; and 11 of them died inaccidents at work , 910 in particular due to falls in a vacuum. 11
Later, the road was conditioned and widened between September 1945 and June 1950, becoming a couple of meters wide. 45 workers participated, two of whom died in an accident.
In 2011, a section of the cliff collapsed at the level of a road tunnel, causing its temporary closure and the subsequent construction of a cantilevered walkway over the void to overcome the collapse. The road was reopened on July 1, 2012
Anyway, I’m not going to bore you with a step by step account. I’m going to share a bunch of pictures that hopefully tell the story for me. It was warm going out, baking coming back. I had a paddle in the icy cold Cares river. And it will forever be memorable.
Views from our overnighter!Magnificent mountainsWalks don’t come much more spectacular!Evidence of the path’s engineeringThis is the waterway wall, and overhanging rock. It’s hard to explain but it’s remarkable to seeA tunnel with windows over the gorgeOn the way back – its around the mid 30s!You can’t see them, but in this frame are Vultures – or Pharoah’s Chickens, as they are comically known – circling. There were around 7-8, and they are HUGE!!! Never seen them before, and wow, what a sight!
The natural life on this path was phenomenal. The walk had the most incredible scent – there was mint, olives, figs, bay, and a million things I can’t identify. The prettiest bright yellow butterflies, and delicate blue ones. And vultures – did I mention the vultures???
Goats. I’m not usually a fan – they smell – but these mountian guys are cool. They are smart too. -they all made their way down to the carpark late afternoon for tourist snacks!
The best picnic spot. A river, a gorgeous backdrop, a walk generated hunger and Rick.
Quite a day of travelling today. We’ve re-cut our plan a little to allow time for a hike we want to do later in the trip. So today we left Salamanca and headed all the way down to Seville.
The journey took in some pretty epic scenery, through cattle ranches and over mountains. We saw lots more Pharaoh’s Chickens, they really are something when there’s a dozen of them circling low by the roadside!
We left Salamanca in a cloudy 21degrees. The temperature rose and rose, leaving The Colonel gasping a little as we went over the higher passes. By the time we hit Seville, it was a just after 5pm and it was 35 degrees. Wow!!
We were lucky enough to find one of our ‘starred’ spots straight away, and it seems good so we parked up and headed into the city to find the tourist info office.
The chap here was so helpful, showing us all the top spots to visit and when was best to go, and how to get the best out the Flamenco festival which start today (which is partly why we planned to visit). The area we are parked in is the main area for bars to showcase flamenco, so, fingers crossed for some fun tomorrow!
Also, the King is in town, so there’s security everywhere, and he drove past us in the city centre. Tried to get a photo…!
First impressions of Seville are incredible, so expect lots of pictures over the next few days!!
So, sadly, damply, slightly tiredly, this is it. The last stretch. Only 15 miles stands between me and my cosy campervan bed. Here we go!
We’d heard that the climb out of Kinlochleven was quite tough, and certainly it didn’t disappoint! You wind your way up out of the valley through the woods.I’d hoped to take in the Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall, but surprise surprise, it was raining, so we didn’t fancy any dreich detours!
Once out of the woods we had some fine views back down to the village and the loch, but the rain and wind were not done with us yet! The route once again follows an old military road, a hardcore path around the sides of the mountains. I’d love to say that the scenery was spectacular, but the reality is that we had our hoods up against the elements for almost the entirety of this stretch so it was difficult to look around! When it wasn’t raining, the gusting wind was so strong that the hoods kept your head warm; to put it into perspective, at one point Rick got blown over!
We took a bit of shelter where the path dipped for a stream to quickly refuel, and then continued, looking forward to the cover of the woods ahead. So you can imagine the disappointment when we say that much if the Glen Nevis forest actually looks like this:
The very last part of the way is a slog along the side of the road. The rain thankfully had fizzled out, and we fell in with another couple who were completing for the second time. This was something of a relief as we were convinced we were going the wrong way as the road seemed endless! And then – the sign! The official end of the route and of course, the obligatory photo!
We headed on past this to the Man with Tired Feet, where some of the Parkinson’s fundraising group were waiting for the others to complete and they cheered us over the line. Rick and I made a beeline for the Black Isle Brewery pub for a well deserved beer and pizza, and met Fraser, who was completing LeJoG for MS and about to embark the WHW (backwards!). It was the perfect end to the walk.
Notes
Black Isle Bar. Pretty cool place, in a trendy modern sort of way. Lots of big sharing tables as well as smaller single group options. Huge beer menu, as you’d expect, and then pizzas which are made to order and very tasty. Mine was truffled mushroom, delicious! Can’t remember what Rick had but I think it had chicken on it – he devoured it anyway!
A and A taxis are very efficient and got us to and from our campsite at the start and finish of the walk, I felt sorry for the guys who had to walk past their campsite to complete the walk and then walk two miles back again!
Loch Linnhe holidays was where we stayed before and after, and the van was in storage here too. Huge site, spectacular views! Good hot showers and facilities and when we returned, a lot of grounds work had been done so it was looking really pretty with lots of colourful azaleas. Laundry facility not great (bit grubby and lots of stuff out of order) but otherwise can recommend.
That was possibly the coldest night I have ever tried to sleep through! I mean, I know our kipping bags aren’t designed for arctic weather, but I was in thermals, pjs, and by 1am, a down coat too, and I was still shivering. Out came the emergency foil blanket, but to no avail. Neither of us got back to sleep until after 4 am when the birds starting singing – replacing a rather raucous tawny owl – and the sun started to come up. A clear night had plunged the temperatures and our beautiful camping spot was also very exposed, so it was inevitable we’d be cold. But we knew we had a very short day ahead so snuggled in until 10ish to catch up on the zzzzs!
The aforementioned breakfast baps kickstarted us into life for a short 9 miler to Kinlochleven. Waterproofs were back on within yards of setting off, and a downpour ensued just as we reached the A82, but it blew through and we bravely binned them off again for the infamous Devil’s Staircase, a sinuous climb up of a around 300metres, it’s quite a tough ascent with a pack. The route then picks it’s way around the mountains. There should be lots of fabulous views of GlenCoe and even Ben Nevis, but the continuous low cloud meant we only got glimpses, which was a real shame. I’d love to go back and do the WHW again, even in bits, so that I can see all the views and backdrops that the weather prevented me from seeing first time around!
It’s a lengthy descent into Kinlochleven, with many claiming the descent is harder than the ascent on the knees, especially. It takes you over fords and stepping stones, past dams and reservoirs, and past a huge pipeline that I believe is linked to the old aluminium smelting industry of this town. We met a couple who were touring parts of Scotland by sea kayak and heard all about a sport that was new to us – another one for the bucket list!! Finally, down through the trees to the river and the campsite, and we arrived mid afternoon, so a short and easy day that we both enjoyed after the arduous 19 miler the day before, but also because what we could see was very beautiful.
Blackwater Camping is spot on, a very nicely kept camping area, another superb drying room, protected cook area (and kettle, always a huge bonus!) and the best showers en route so far! After saying hello to everyone we now ‘knew’ from the route on campsite, we set up, cleaned up, and of course headed into town for a few supplies, a pint and dinner at the Highland Getaway Inn. Fish pie for Rick and salmon for me, especially as the river Leven is a salmon breeding area. We chatted with the Parkinsons fundraisers as they were staying at the Inn, and also with the couple we’d met at the Falls of Falloch – the WHW really is a small world!!!
Notes
Not so many today – as above, Blackwater was great, they also had a hostel and shepherds huts if you don’t fancy camping. They are next to the river but sheltered from the gusty wind that prevailed throughout the night.
Highland Getaway – great views from the picture windows upstairs over the river. Simple menu, good portions and piping hot, tasty but nothing spectacular, the salmon would have been better with a sauce, and I’ve never been a fan of condiments in sachets. Wine choice by the glass was awful. Service very pleasant.
Well, I thought it was a UFO, it was a bright shining light in the sky that appeared and then disappeared behind the clouds, and there must have been some extra-terrestrial activity because everybody had this weird mood change when it was visible.
Oh. It was the sun. I’d forgotten what it looked like. Today, at last, we did nearly a whole day without waterproofs!!!
This was a long one, but we knew it was going to be so a proper lunch stop had been factored in and there were lots of goodies in the pockets to keep us going. We crossed the ford out of the excellent By The Way campsite and were treated to a display of chainsaw sculptures that had been commissioned to entertain WHWers. The route heads out alongside the A82 for some time, before peeling away to follow the railway lines, crossing both at the Bridge of Orchy. As we took photos on the bridge, a moho trundled over and parked up, and remarkably, a couple who we’d met a week or so earlier in Dumfries and Galloway emerged from the cab! We caught up on recent activities before Rick and I started the ascent through the woods..
It was a steady climb, rewarding us with a glimpse of a red deer wandering through. I loved the walk through the trees, there was a slightly magical feel to it! Although apparently this is my vivid imagination, according to OH!!
Out the other side we headed down to the Inveroran Hotel, our planned lunch destination. It was brill! They have a Walkers’ Bar, which was spot on, and Rick tucked in to venison sausages and mash, whilst I had sweet potato falafel taco. Just what was needed before we tackled the historic route across Rannoch Moor. It also gave me chance to check in on my feet! My first blisters of the walk had long since sorted themselves with the help of Compeed, and I have been treating my feet to nightly Vicks massages and morning Vaseline coatings to keep them at bay (yes, I know, but it works!). I had gained another on my little toe – a normal hotspot for me – so wrapped it up nicely for the rest of the day.
As we left the Inveroran, we were halted in our tracks by a deer casually wandering across the road to meet his three friends on the other side! Then we were in front of the info board, digesting the history of the route we were about to embark upon, Telford’s Parliamentary Road. Telford built a road that allowed passage at lower levels and therefore lower gradients, and the road was sufficiently gravelled to protect the hooves of cattle, and the horses pulling carriages. Its a bit harsh on the feet at times, but wow! What a special part of the route this is. Rannoch Moor is an empty wilderness and we loved it! The area around Ba Bridge was especially lovely, and I can see why others wild camp there – I’d love to, with the right kit.
We saw more deer as we traversed, a far off possible sighting of an eagle too. As we came to the end of the road, coming down into the ski area of Glencoe Mountain resort, we met up with a fascinating Hungarian hiker who told us she had wanted to do the WHW for 20 years, and that the views had been so incredible, she had been moved to tears at least twice. Her company was the motivation we needed to get through the last couple of miles into Kingshouse, named for the hotel the King required for travellers on this route, where we would be ‘wild’ camping.
I say wild, but how wild it can be considered when you’re in the shadow of a hotel and there are a dozen other tents in the vicinity, I’m not sure! But the setting was stunning, with Buachaille Etive Mor in the background, a river burbling away to your side, and clear skies overhead, deer roaming, ducklings splashing about, and a bar within a a minute’s walk!!!! And after 19 miles hiking, we’d earned that pint!!!
Notes
Inveroran Hotel. Superb hospitality, delicious food. They have a nice and slightly different lunch menu, plus cakes (!) available, in a sweet little bar with a very hospitable and welcoming team, we really rated this place. Excellent lunch stop
Kingshouse hotel. A pint whilst sitting in the massive picture window of the Art Gallery was a real treat, watching all manner of wildlife. The breakfast baps the next day were just what we needed to warm us up and get us going. Very friendly service and a lovely venue with an interesting history.
Last night it rained and rained and rained. Rain seems to have become a feature of this walk, we’ve rarely had the opportunity to take our waterproofs off, the decision is generally just hood up or hood down. Mostly whilst walking it’s been drizzle, altho occasionally that drizzle has been torrential! Happily our second hand tent, purchased on FB, continues to hold fast and we woke up dry.
The next stretch was to Tyndrum, about 12 miles away. As we left the campsite we bumped into a couple we’d met twice before on preceding days, and had a little catch up with them. Then we headed up and away along the river to the very spectacular Falls of Falloch. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t playing nicely, it was really windy and rainy, not ideal for photos. And Rick was suffering a bit with his shoulder too, courtesy of an out of control skier a few weeks ago.
Me: How’s it going? Aren’t the Falls amazing!? And I can hear a Cuckoo.
Him: My shoulders hurt. My pack weighs a ton. My feet hurt. It’s raining.
Me: So how can we put a positive spin on this?
Fellow walker: Look at the Falls, isn’t nature powerful! And it’s only drizzle. Torrential drizzle. Take a painkiller!
So, on we go, not altogether having the best bit of walking of the week, but the waterfalls are on repeat, one after another tumbling away at the side of us, and they really are amazing to see, plunging down steep hillsides to converge and create even bigger, noisier falls below.
After the succession of waterfalls came the climb up to Crianlarich forest. The weather was not improving, but as we approached the crossroads we were in need of a pick me up, so rested for a few minutes on a bench that would normally afford you amazing views, but on this occasion, was just very very windy! But there was some info about the road and its history, and a little robin who was very curious as to whether we might share our goodies with him!
The route continued through the pine trees, and we were lucky enough to glimpse a deer roaming around,before dipping down through an area that had been completely felled. It looked so sad and desolate, man had really made his presence felt and it was made more obvious by the preceding wilderness. We crossed the A82 to another set of information about sheep farming and St Fillan which was quite interesting. As we don’t have a guide book with us, it’s fun to read snippets as you walk. The next set of info was all about the Lochan of the Lost Sword which I really found engaging. It’d be great to see more of this sort of thing along the way as there is so much history to the route.
We’d met back up with the couple from the Falls during these last few miles and shared some life stories. It’s such a convivial walk, we’ve met some lovely folk. I’ve not mentioned Lucy yet, but we spent the first couple of days chatting with her, an incredible soloist, wild camping, who does a long distance walk every year. Such mental strength, at least Rick and I can chivvy each other along! And there are so many others that you encounter and re encounter along the route that make the miles tick over.
We headed down into Tyndrum, somewhat damp from the day’s activities, only to discover a camping pod had been cancelled and was available to us, so we upgraded and started sorting out everything for the big day ahead….. A 19 miler! Then a wander in to Tyndrum for some tea and a top up shop at the Green Welly (famous around these parts) before a night in our shed!
Who leaves HALF a chip??!!
Notes
Tyndrum Inn – friendly service, in an open bar with sport on TV, etc. Quite traditional, fairly standard menu. Fish n chips and scampi and chips were fine, Rick apparently kept a pudding pocket by leaving half a chip, choc fudge cake which he enjoyed but I wouldn’t, it was too ‘factory’ for me. Team were doing a good job in a fairly busy environment.
By the way campsite is the best so far. A genuine and friendly welcome. Flat pitches. A good, clean facility block with hot showers. Super food area with electric kettle, proper pot washing facilities, laundry and charging points. The drying area is HOT , so my boots dried completely overnight, hurrah!!! All in all, well thought out and well provisioned.
This was so much fun!!! The third stage, Rowardennan to Beinglas camping in Inverarnan, is much talked about as the toughest. It runs along the Loch edge and is around 13.5 miles.
The first decision of the day was low or high route. These are seasonal variables with the low route considered more challenging. As we’d bailed on Conic Hill, we felt we ought to do the low route, and I’m so glad we did – it was beautiful!!
It was rather up and down, there’s no doubt, but to be honest, it was a mere warm up for what was to come! The scenery more than compensated for the toll on the legs though. To our left, the loch was rippling under the stiff breeze. To our right, large stretches of bluebells, interspersed with wild garlic like brilliant stars, and jeweled with delicate yellow primroses. It was just so pretty that Rick got bored of me pointing out how pretty it was!
Also – goats. There are lots of goats with great big huge horns, presumably managing the foliage. Made me jump though when I first saw them!
The route clambered up to rejoin the high level and we clambered on. As we got closer to Inversnaid, we knew the trail would get tough again as we have explored some of the area before. The path is only just wide enough for your feet, with the risk of a Loch Lomond dunking if you slip, in places. There are several waterfalls to cross, although the main one at Inversnaid has foot bridges (no trolls though). You can hear the tumbling torrent as you near it, signalling, for us, the lunch break.
We had a pack up from the hostel, supplemented with a few of our own goodies, and refuelled for the next stretch. Its a beast! There are tall steps up that require both hands if you are carrying a pack. There a huge steps that I had to sit and slide down. There are ladders. Fords – one after another after another! Tiny gaps squeeze through and narrow paths to teeter along at the loch edge. And waterfalls that require a bit of blind faith to get across too. It’s so technical, but you are so focused on staying upright, the kilometres click off.
I love trails like this when I’m running. With a 10kg pack it’s certainly a different game, but it’s just as entertaining.
As we scrambled along, we met traffic in the form of a larger, slower group. It was a particularly tricky section, but we chatted as we all made our way along. The group was fundraising for a Parkinsons charity, and were walking with a gent who had Parkinsons. As if this route wasn’t hard enough, he was completing it with this debilitating disease. What an absolute legend! His WHW really is inspirational – an over used word, but totally appropriate in this case.
Once past the end of the loch, the route becomes a little tamer. We were in drizzle (again) and had a bit of an uphill slog around Cnap Mor to contend with. There was a Cuckoo following us, it seemed. It does get a bit like a taunt after a while. Plus, as I commented to an unimpressed Rick, it’s very disappointing that a couple of Bavarian bedecked dancers don’t hop out of a tree and waltz, like they do put of a Cuckoo clock.
We camped at Beinglas Farm. Underwhelmed by the welcome, and having been recommended it, we took a 5 minute walk in now torrential rain to the Drovers for dinner (voted Scotland Pub of the Year, 1705), which was superb, before snuggling up for the night to sound of a swollen river and more rain!
Notes
Rowardennan YH – 2 nights here. Its a stunning building with the most incredible Loch side setting. The team are trying so hard, but there needs to be more of them. It’s clean, the showers are excellent, and the food is plentiful. Packed lunch is very good value.
Inversnaid Hotel has a poor rep of late, but the Walkers bar is well set up now, it seems, with people eating their pack ups with a pint from the bag. Tall trestle tables, indoors, with a view.
Beinglas camping needs to work on being more friendly, both check in and bar service were curt at best and I was embarrassed for our foreign guests especially. The drying room is unheated so not great in these conditions. There is a ceramic hob and pot wash area too but it’s all open to the elements. However the camping field has a gorgeous view of the river and the shop is friendlier and well stocked.
The Drovers – where do I start!?!? A very haunted pub. Full of very strange character and charm. My photos really don’t do it justice – take a look at their website. Service was fabulous, friendly, charming, efficient and the food was excellent. I had veggie haggis, neeps and tatties, Rick had Hunter’s chicken. Steaming hot, beautifully seasoned, generous portions. Yummy apple crumble (me, obvs ) and sticky toffee pud (him, also obvs) meant we fair rolled back to the tent!!
A longer day ahead, and unfortunately, not the best night’s sleep. The rain and wind were relentless until the early hours, and when they stopped, the temperature dropped so it got a bit chilly. Restorative porridge in the morning, climbed back in to our waterproofs and away we were again!
We opted for the ‘seasonal’ route along the road to Balmaha rather than over Conic Hill as the weather was still iffy and we weren’t likely to get much of a view from the top. Balmaha presented us with a treat though, a delicious lunch that fuelled us well into the afternoon! Also, the village itself is really pretty, and there’s a lovely garden and statue of Tom Weir that are worth a few moments of your time (I won’t spoil the surprise of the story but it involves clothes swapping!)
The walk was now lochside and the views were beautiful! Sparkling water, bobbing boats, dramatic mountains, it has it all! But the route becomes increasingly challenging as you wind your way through woods and beach front. Very undulating with steps and some fairly challenging short ascents.
We were playing leapfrog with more and more groups now too, as people stopped for snacks and drinks and to put waterproofs on and take them off again. It was nice because you start to recognise folk and chat with them a bit more.
We finally decided to take the plunge and take our jackets off as the rain seemed to have gone. I kid you not, as I tightened the straps on my rucksack, it started to rain again!
The last 2 kilometres to Rowardennan were the looonnngggest 2km Of. My. Life. Ever. Up and down and down and up again. And then you see the hostel and its another km to get to it, I’m sure! We were so glad to get checked in, have a hot shower, and mooch to the pub for a meal.
The hostel is also licenced so we had a beer and a chat with some walkers we’d been leapfrogging with. Then up to our dorms (!) for a proper night’s sleep!
View from hostel lounge, breathtaking!
Notes
Lunch at the Perch coffee shop (Balmaha) was excellent, fantastic service too. Rick had a sausage and egg bap, I had so much scrambled egg on toast I couldn’t eat it all, plus a couple of cakes and coffees, all for £25. They’ve a lovely conservatory area and we sat out the worst of a downpour there.
Evening meal at the Clansman nearly didn’t happen. You can’t get through on the phone, so we walked down and were told there was an hour wait for food, which we said was fine. Ordered drinks at the bar, the bar man told us we’d be lucky to get a table! But we did, and the food – sea bass for me, pie (of course) for Rick was superb, the fish was beautifully cooked and I’ve never seen so much meat in a pie! But the barman twice billed us incorrectly (to the tune of over £20 the first time), and judging by the frequency he kept topping up the tips jar, I’m not convinced it was as accidental as he was claiming, sadly.
Ricoshay's Ramblings 